Photo: Aitutaki lagoon
Tropical Escapes
Cook Islands
No building taller than a coconut palm, Sunday church singing and Aitutaki's lagoon, one of the most beautiful in the world. The secret is getting the balance between the islands right.
Small, relaxed and beautifully unspoilt.
The Cook Islands feel like the Pacific of years gone by. There are no high-rise hotels, no traffic lights and no crowds, just lagoons, warm hospitality and a gentle pace of life that's impossible not to fall in love with.
Most visitors divide their time between Rarotonga, the lively main island, and Aitutaki, a short flight away, with its extraordinary turquoise lagoon.
Choosing where to stay, and how long to spend on each island, is the most important decision you'll make, and it's where I can help most.
Find your place
Which area is best for your holiday?
Three areas compared side by side, each with something different to offer.
About 20 minutes from Rarotonga Airport
Muri, Rarotonga
On Rarotonga's south-east coast, Muri is a shallow, sheltered lagoon dotted with four small islands called motu. It's the island's most popular area, with resorts, cafés and restaurants along the beach.
Beach and water: Calm, shallow and crystal clear, perfect for swimming, paddleboarding and kayaking.
The feel: Relaxed and sociable, with plenty within walking distance.
What's good: The prettiest lagoon on Rarotonga, lots to do and easy dining.
Worth knowing: The lagoon is very shallow at low tide, and it's the busiest part of the island.
Things to do
Paddleboard or kayak out to the motu, take a glass-bottom boat cruise, snorkel the lagoon, visit the Muri Night Market or join a lagoon cruise with lunch.
Best for: Families, couples and first-timers.
10 to 30 minutes from Rarotonga Airport
Rarotonga's sunset coast
Rarotonga's west and south coasts are quieter, with beautiful sunsets over the water and some of the best snorkelling on the island. You're still only a short drive from everything, but it feels a little more tucked away.
Beach and water: Narrower beaches, with excellent snorkelling, especially in the south.
The feel: Quiet, romantic and laid-back.
What's good: Sunsets, snorkelling and a calmer pace.
Worth knowing: It's less lively than Muri, and you'll want a car or scooter to get around.
Things to do
Snorkel the marine reserve at Fruits of Rarotonga, hike the Cross-Island Track, visit the Punanga Nui Market on Saturday, attend a Sunday church service or enjoy an Island Night with dancing.
Best for: Couples and travellers wanting quiet.
About 50 minutes by domestic flight
Aitutaki
Aitutaki is home to one of the most beautiful lagoons in the world, a vast sweep of turquoise water ringed by tiny islands. One Foot Island and its sandbars are the stuff of postcards.
Beach and water: Soft white sand and a breathtaking turquoise lagoon.
The feel: Very quiet, very beautiful and completely unhurried.
What's good: The lagoon, the peace and the sense of being somewhere truly special.
Worth knowing: There's little nightlife and only a handful of restaurants. That's exactly the appeal.
Things to do
Take a lagoon cruise to One Foot Island, snorkel with giant trevally and clams, kayak between the motu, visit a local village or simply watch the sunset from your deck.
Best for: Couples, honeymooners and complete relaxation.
A few ways it could look
Ways to build your Cook Islands escape
Simple inspiration rather than fixed itineraries. Every trip is shaped around you.
7 nights · Rarotonga
One island
Settle into Muri or the sunset coast, with everything you need close by.
10 nights · Rarotonga → Aitutaki
Two islands
Start with a few days on Rarotonga for markets, food and exploring, then finish on Aitutaki's lagoon with nothing to do.
7 nights · Aitutaki
Lagoon escape
Fly straight through to Aitutaki and spend the whole week by the lagoon.
12 nights · Auckland → Rarotonga → Aitutaki
City and islands
A couple of nights in Auckland on the way, then the best of both Cook Islands.
Where you might stay
Some gorgeous places to stay in the Cook Islands
From family-friendly resorts to quiet lagoon retreats, the Cook Islands offer accommodation for different budgets and styles of holiday. Here are eight worth considering.
Muri, Rarotonga · Families and couples · $$$
Pacific Resort Rarotonga
Right on Muri Lagoon, with spacious suites, a lovely pool and a great kids' club.
Muri, Rarotonga · Adults only · $$$
Muri Beach Club Hotel
An adults-only boutique hotel on the beach, with a relaxed, social atmosphere and lagoon views.
West coast, Rarotonga · Couples · $$$
Crown Beach Resort & Spa
Beachfront villas on the sunset coast, with a lovely spa and a peaceful, romantic feel.
South-west, Rarotonga · Families · $$
The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium
A long-time family favourite with its own protected snorkelling lagoon and a kids' club.
Aitutaki · Couples · $$$$
Pacific Resort Aitutaki
An intimate beachfront retreat right beside Aitutaki's lagoon, with stunning sunsets.
Aitutaki · Adults only · $$$$
Aitutaki Lagoon Private Island Resort
On its own small island in the lagoon, with overwater and beachfront bungalows.
Aitutaki · Couples and families · $$$
Tamanu Beach
A relaxed, friendly resort on a beautiful stretch of beach, with spacious bungalows.
Aitutaki · Couples · $$
Ikurangi Eco Retreat
Luxury safari-style tents in tropical gardens, a lovely and different way to stay on Aitutaki.
Indicative price positioning only: $$ comfortable, $$$ premium, $$$$ luxury. Actual rates vary by season, room category, inclusions and transfers.
Practical tips
Planning your Cook Islands escape
When to go
May to October
The dry season
Warm, sunny days, cooler evenings and lower humidity. The most popular time to visit.
November to April
The wet season
Hotter and more humid, with tropical showers and the chance of a cyclone. Quieter and good value.
Peak times
Book early
Australian and New Zealand school holidays, Christmas and New Year are the busiest times.
A guide to costs
The Cook Islands suit a range of budgets. Here's a simple guide to what you can expect at each level.
Comfortable
Friendly beachfront resorts and self-contained bungalows on Rarotonga, great for families.
Luxury
Boutique resorts and beachfront villas, with lovely spas and a quieter, more romantic feel.
Ultimate
Aitutaki's finest lagoon retreats, with overwater bungalows and complete seclusion.
Prices change with the season, the room and how you get there, so these are a starting point only. My planning fee is $250, and I'll compare resorts and packages to find you the best value for your dates.
Getting there
Direct flights from Sydney take around six hours, or you can fly via Auckland. Aitutaki is a 50-minute flight from Rarotonga.
Crossing the date line
The Cook Islands are on the other side of the date line, so you arrive the day before you left. It feels like gaining a day of holiday.
Is a meal plan worth it?
On Rarotonga it's easy and fun to eat out, so breakfast only works well. On Aitutaki there are fewer choices, so a meal plan can make sense.
How long on each island?
I usually suggest at least four nights on Aitutaki. Day trips are possible, but staying lets you see the lagoon early in the morning and at sunset.
Made for you
Your Cook Islands escape. Your way.
I'll help you choose the right islands, the right resort and the right room, with flights and transfers that get you there smoothly.
Tell me your dates, who's coming and the kind of holiday you have in mind, and I'll find the place to match.
All you need to do is pack.
Keep exploring
